Back to El Nido

Today we were returning to El Nido via the same really enjoyable ferry we took before. This time it was booked for midday, a slightly more leisurely wake up than our outward journey (we were up at 4 for that). We just got up when we woke up, went to the breakfast shop around the corner for a smoothie bowl and waffles (substituted for pancakes as the waffle machine wasn’t working, my turn for my preferred dish to not be available). After this we just packed up and I attempted to download the Lord of the Rings audiobook to listen to on board. Unfortunately the internet decided to cutout at around three quarters finished, excellent. I was therefore left with the few remaining podcasts left on my phone, one on the architectural tome ‘Learning from Las Vegas’ by Venturi Scott-Brown (they agree with me that it’s a relatively bad read and is an unnecessarily complex way for Venturi S-B to convey halfhearted concepts that he doesn’t incorporate into his average-at-best architecture), OMA and their conceptual works (fell asleep during this) and how the open office is terrible/how we can make it better. It wasn’t actually as bad as it sounds, and I felt fine during the ride, which wasn’t the case for Amelia, who was not in good shape. However we had no plans for the rest of the day so literally didn’t have to do a thing (a good life), so just went out for dinner and headed to bed.

The next day we were Island hopping again, this time doing Tour B from El Nido. We had decided on B as C wasn’t available (too windy) and A and D have loads of snorkelling which Amelia won’t do and I didn’t want to get my left ear in the water too much as it was still bothering me slightly. As a bit of background, there are 4 set tours from El Nido, inventively named A, B, C and D which all the different tour operators do. The town is clearly very much geared up for these tours, as evidenced by the hundred or so boats in the bay, however the organisation when we were picked up in the morning was abominable. We were led to the beach and essentially passed around different people for an hour until we were led to our boat with the group (10-15 of us), which we then waited on for a further half hour or so (felt like a lot more) before our captain finally turned up and we headed off. We were led from the hostel at 7:30 and set off at 10:30ish. A bit ridiculous, there were many people in the same boat (metaphorically) as us just milling around the beach. The tour as a whole wasn’t as good at in Coron (what can you expect when that was called the ‘super ultimate’ tour). We stopped off at a nice enough beach where Amelia ‘attempted’ to snorkel, which lasted all of 2 seconds and ended when she swallowed a bit of sea water. Next up was a very average snorkelling spot where the coral was all pretty dead apart from a few patches of weed (for want of a better word, not fully educated on coral nomenclature) which had clown fish (nemo) swimming in and out. Very cool to see, and made up for the dead coral everywhere else. Next was the best spot, a sand bar between two islands which made it look like people were walking on water if captured at the right angle where I found a great, and deserted, viewpoint. 

Lunch was served on the boat here and was actually really good, the only better aspect of this tour than the Coron one. The chap had been cooking it at the back of the boat during our journey thus far, so all the more impressive considering how good it was. Next up was a cave, which we accessed by swimming through a lot of long seaweed, definitely not up there on Amelia’s favourite moments of the trip. Swimming back out from the cave she thought something was eating her leg so literally screamed and jumped into my arms, at which point I was just in hysterics. We got a few odd looks but it was probably the funniest moment of the trip so far. Very good. The cave itself was very cool, and not captured in the many many photos our guide took inside. Definitely not a photographer. Next up was another, much bigger cave which we simply drove up to and took selfies in front of. The wind had got up by that point and the sea was a little choppy, in the sales photos there had been people kayaking into it, however it may have been a little too dangerous for that. The final stop was a quite pretty beach on a tiny island with very high cliffs. At this point it was raining steadily and actually quite cold, when we were told we had an hour here, the longest stop of the day, nobody was too impressed. Us and an Aussie couple returned to the boat pretty quickly hoping that the rest of the group would take the hint, which was largely successful apart from the last couple who suddenly had a keen interest in snorkelling, something that they hadn’t had all day before that, even though there was literally nothing to see there. We headed back to El Nido after they cottoned on, not before rescuing another boat who’s engine had ceased to work. As I mentioned previously, not as good as Coron as the guide literally didn’t guide at all, the sites weren’t as pretty, the group wasn’t as fun (apart from the very nice Aussie couple) and the weather was very iffy, but still fun nonetheless. 

The next day we didn’t do another island hopping tour as again C wasn’t running and my ear was so bunged up with seawater again I didn’t really want to make it worse. Therefore we stayed in El Nido. Amelia woke up in a right mood and wanted to just stay in bed, I however successfully tempted her out of bed with the promise of breakfast at Happiness (restaurant) which turned her mood right around. All it takes is a bit of food. We then (slowly) went over to the El Nido canopy walk, which was closed for lunch, so returned to the hostel to connect to the internet for a bit of Japan research before again striking forth for the walk. It was a random search that I did to find it but was actually really good. You get fully equipped with helmet and harness to climb a series of scaffold ladders and a suspension bridge before arriving at the top of a cliff overlooking the El Nido bay. A very good view with excessive safety procedures. On the way back down our guide mentioned there is a sunrise hike to the top of the taller brother of the cliff we had just climbed. We’d only have to get up at 4:30 and as we love both a sunrise and a hike we took him up on the offer, which turned out to be an interesting decision (explained later). 

From here we just got a distinctly average ice cream (although Amelia really liked hers), headed back for a bit more Japan research then headed out for a drink at Sava beach club, which had some very good music and a sort of Mediterranean beach club vibe, before heading for dinner at Athena, a Greek restaurant on the beach. Other than the large cockroach scuttling around the floor it was a very successful dinner. With the promise of an early rise the following day we headed to bed for a less successful sleep. It seems whenever we have an early wake up we both sleep pretty badly. 

We woke to rain. Consistent, mizzly rain. It didn’t deter us and we met up with Mark (the guide) at 5am. He led us through a few back alleys (which stank) before providing us with headtorches and beginning the climb. It categorically was not a hike as described. Definitely an actual rock climbing experience, without any safety equipment. A stark contrast to the excessive safety gear we were provided with the previous day. Afterwards we both said we wouldn’t have gone if we knew what the actual experience was. Amelia’s described it as the most dangerous thing we’ve done all trip by far, don’t worry mum, we are both fine. The climb was up a 230m, limestone cliff with razor sharp rocks and 3 sheer rock faces to climb (without harnesses, safety ropes, helmets or any safety paraphernalia), which was made worse by the rain causing the rocks to be very slippery in places. Oh and it was obviously dark so visibility was pretty questionable too. Not far into the climb the guide tried pointing out a tarantula with his head torch, to which Amelia tearfully replied ‘what...where...’ and I quickly told him to carry on and not point out any wildlife. A slightly sticky situation avoided there (if Amelia had seen a tarantula in the wild it would have been game over, she probably would have booked a flight back home on the spot). The final ascent at the top of the cliff was a series of very sharp limestone tips which, in the semi-darkness, seemed to disappear beneath us which I didn’t enjoy at all (being slightly afraid of heights). Overcoming this part we were at the summit, which had amazing views that my lens isn’t wide enough to capture. We got there about half an hour before the sunrise, however the thick layers of cloud over the peaks inland obscured that completely, I actually thought it was rising in the opposite direction because that was the patch of sky that was lightest. A few other groups joined us at the top, all wearing highly inappropriate clothing because, presumably, they were also under the impression that it was just a hike. 

After a few rainy squalls passed we headed down in the light, which was actually better than I had feared, my fear of heights may be waning somewhat. We went very slowly and, after only a few slight slips and miraculously no injuries, arrived safely back on dry land. An unforgettable experience, which we couldn’t recommend to anyone because it was just ridiculously unsafe. We had previously discussed an interest in rock climbing, however as Amelia said, we’d envisaged it may include the use of at least one item of safety equipment. We were back at the hostel by 8 for a ‘light’ breakfast, went back up to the room for a nap, had a pizza, then headed over to the bus station via trike for the bus down to Port Barton at 1pm. This is already far too long so I won’t bore you any further, let’s just say the journey was interesting.