Oamaru to Mount Cook: Lake Pukaki, the Hookers Lake trail

After stopping off for brake fluid (the engine warning light is off, finally) we headed on a 2 and a half to 3 hour drive to Peter’s Lookout at Lake Pukaki. After stopping off at a few viewpoints along the way (mostly dams) we made it to the ridiculously blue Lake Pukaki. It’s literally cyan, a pretty bright cyan. When the sun peeked out behind the clouds it was even more vivid. I really can’t emphasise just how blue it is. 

A dam, no idea it’s name


After this pit stop we continued on, with the lake on our right, to the Hooker Lake trailhead at Aoraki Mount Cook village. Everywhere around here references Mount Cook, the same mountain we were meant to see reflected in Lake Matheson over the other side of the mountain range when we were at the glaciers. We again definitely could not see it. The rain had increased in strength consistently since we left Peters Lookout, I’d describe it as relatively torrential at this point. We had our lunch in the van, mentally preparing ourselves for the (slightly) damp walk we were about to embark upon. Initially it wasn’t as bad as we feared. It sounds far worse inside the van, although not as bad as the RV in Canada, that amplified even a light misting into a downpour. However the further we got on the hike the stronger the wind became, the heavier the rain became, and the higher the proportion of hail we experienced. Amelia lightly described it as ‘aggressive hail’. There was moments where we literally just huddled against each other for protection and took the beating the near horizontal hail was dishing out. I found squatting down in order to reduce the surface area liable to be attacked was an effective method of minimising the pain (oh I didn’t mention I was also wearing shorts). On our return journey Amelia sung every song referencing rain she could think of, a highlight being a rendition of Rhianna’s Umbrella, with accompanying ‘dance’ moves, on a long suspension bridge. 

Lake Pukaki


That ordeal over with (I did actually quite enjoy it to be completely honest) we changed out of our sodden clothes and got back in the van with the heating up full tin an attempt to dry out. We were going to do another hike just around the corner, but it was to a glacier, and after experiencing the other glaciers and the conditions at Hooker Lake we (I) decided to give it a miss and just carry on to the campsite in Twizel. 

Where we were heading...


It’s the first time we’ve cheated on Top10, and it’s fine. All the same amenities, without quite the same level of finish. The only slightly odd thing is they segregate cabin and campervan residents kitchen/dining areas, and the cabins have their own lounge. They don’t even need a lounge, they’ve got cabins, very bitter. We’ve set up camp with all our wet clothes on a drying rack in the laundry room and shoes over a radiator next to us in the kitchen/dining area. Hopefully they’ll be slightly drier by morning. 

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