Dunedin, Moeraki Boulders and Katiki Point Lighthouse

This morning we had a pretty easy start, with no concrete plan other than to explore Dunedin for a bit until 2-3ish when we’d make our way North to the Moeraki boulders (before high tide) and the Katiki Point Lighthouse in early evening for the best chance of seeing penguins. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, a great looking day, a great day to go to the beach, so we made our way over to St Clairs Beach, Dunedin’s answer to of Bondi beach. Basically a really beautiful, long stretch of sand with loads of surfers and boutique cafes/shops along the promenade. A pretty fashionable place to be one may say. We had a walk along the beach, realised tunnel beach was a long walk away so didn’t go there, and returned to a very warm Iorek. 

With the draw of New Zealand’s only castle just a 25 minute drive away we set off. Amelia had suggested it was free, however after a very scenic drive we came to a gate where the adult price is about $30. Nope. So turned round (as were 3 other cars in the driveway) and headed back into Dunedin to the botanical gardens. Just missing the turn off for the gardens car park I did an odd manoeuvre in a one way street (little 360 degree spin for fun), circled back and managed to park. The botanical gardens are brilliant, they’re very pretty, and involve different trails around different ‘parts of the world’, but the best bit is the aviary. Here were birds of all shapes, sizes and colours and one very special parrot called Sid. He spoke. Standing looking into an adjacent cage we heard a little ‘hello’ in a childlike voice coming from next to us, I thought it much have been a bird but Amelia was convinced it was a person. We turned back to a very impressive pair of vivid parrots but heard it again, this time more incisive and so stared at a very large, white parrot climbing the side of a cage next to us. ‘Want a cup of tea’, ‘what you doing’ were the other phrases he enunciated enthusiastically, much to our delight. Such a cool, unexpected find in Dunedin. 

With no other vehicle incidents, other than the engine warning light coming on every time we went up a gradient (not worried at all), we made it to Moeraki boulders, a weird series of egg like boulders sitting along a beach. Some of them have broken open and their shards lie around like pieces of an egg cracked open. Really cool and quite weird at the same time. Beyond these, and down some more fun un-made roads, is the Katiki Point Lighthouse. We didn’t have high hopes for an illusive penguin sighting but we’d timed it pretty well as we didn’t realise the area actually closes at half 5 (we were there 4:30ish) and the penguins apparently come back to shore in the evening to sleep after a long days fishing out in the ocean. We crested the hill, walked out over the peninsula, and saw some people with cameras all looking in one direction. There were a pair of penguins standing there, not 20m away, just chilling. It’s the first time I’ve ever seen a penguin in the wild, they must’ve pretty bored just standing there in the same place for so long. We ventured further along the cliffy spit in search of more chaps and saw numerous seals in various states of slumber and, right at the end, slightly camouflaged by the rock, another penguin. I climbed down to a dodgy rock in the sea to get a closer look and a photo and didn’t realise there were seals just around the corner from where I stood and next to where Amelia was sat. They didn’t seem to care and carried on lying there in monstrously uncomfortable looking positions but we quickly retreated so as not to disturb them. On our way back an inquisitive seal ventured up to the grassy stretch of land 10 metres or so above the sea level where us humans were allowed, to have a look at us, quite funny when a couple didn’t realise it was close behind them. An absolutely brilliant hour spent. 

Sadly leaving here we made it to Oamaru, got the engine warning light checked out by a professional who concurred with me that it needed a brake fluid top up (expert), had a tasty barbecue, planned some more for the rest of the trip (Amelia is now excited about it so everything must be booked now), and finally hit the hay. A very good, animal filled day.